In the world of Patek Philippe perpetual calendars, retrogrades are complete sleepers. Typically found in aperture or subregister variants, the retrograde configuration has its own unique charm and an unmistakable quality for being decidedly different.
Take this reference 5050J, for example. A relatively underappreciated reference, the 5050 was presented in 1993 as a return to classic Patek. Influenced by many of Patek’s retrograde-style pocket watches, in contrast with the prevailing perpetual calendar of the era, the 3940, the 5050 felt a bit older and more traditional. The lugs are fuller and the case has slab sides. The profile is a bit more substantial. The 5050 displays the date with retrograde, and the day, leap year indication, moonphase and month in apertures.
The 5050 was completed with ‘leaf’ hands and a ‘lollipop’ balanced central seconds. It truly looks unlike any other perpetual from the brand. This particular 5050 is a bit rarer with its use of a Roman numeral dial in place of the far more common ‘stick’ index variant.
In the hierarchy of Patek Philippe perpetual calendars, the 5050J is in legendary company, but provides its own distinct feel and vibe.
Topped off with a sapphire crystal, exhibition caseback, and automatic winding movement, this piece is an excellent everyday grand complication from the master of grand complications, the one and only Patek Philippe.